Tuesday, December 27, 2016

The Wikis

One of the more unusual Christmas celebrations here in southern Ecuador is the indigenous Saraguro tradition of the parade and dancing of the Wikis (or huiquis).  The Saraguro have done a great job keeping many of their cultural traditions intact, this one included.  On December 23rd, the dancing parade began in town, and then wove up and down into the hills a couple of times.  There were several people we knew (mainly the kids' school mates) that were dancing, and we managed to catch up with them as they were taking a rest at another school mate's home.  It was a hot day (as many are) and they were having some snacks and drinks.

The costumes are elaborate, and there is a complicated story behind it that I do not totally understand.
These guys in the colorful outfits are the "wikis"  

They seem to act like clowns or court jesters, making people laugh and doing some funny lewd things

These costumes are the "giants," and these kids were wearing them over their heads, so their faces stick out at the top of the white base 

Many of the "giants" are shaped like people, and there is one here that is shaped like a vulture with a red head

This little guy is the grandson of our beadwork teacher 

 I believe these guys are supposed to represent the Mestizos, or the Conquistadors, with their long straight noses


These girls (Yudi to the left, and Nadelyn to the right) are classmates of the kids', and are dressed as "sarahuis," apparently mini version of traditional Saraguro brides.  Nadelyn's brother Davy, to the far right, is dressed as a bear.

John and his posse of "sarahuis" (3 of the 4 girls go to the kids' school)

 These guys are dressed in heavy costumes of Spanish moss, with deer horns at the top.  I believe they are meant to represent the devil.
The woman to the right is wearing traditional Saraguro dress, including the large intricate beadwork necklaces.  You see many women dressed this way in our town on a daily basis.

Taking a little break from the procession (they had been at it for 4 hours at this point)

A band accompanies the dancers, with a violinist and some drummers 

Bread and tea for refreshments 

This is an incense burner, surrounded by fresh marigolds.  There were 2 or 3 of these in the procession.  



The dance starts again -- down the main street of town in the hot sun 

The elder man playing the violin is the father of our beadwork teacher 


The "giants" 

Emmett's buddy Joel wearing the bear suit

Oh man, he Wikis came to our door!  They demand a small fee, and you are better off giving it to them...  (kind of a trick or treat situation) 

The diablo at our next door neighbor's house 

The sarahuis in front of our apartment door 




The procession giving the bus driver a hard time (all in good fun)

These folks stayed in costume and character for the better part of 3 days.  They danced for much of the day on December 23rd, and ended up in a village up in the hills called Kantzama Alta.  They then descended again on the evening of the 24th, to process and bring a baby Jesus to the church just before Mass on Christmas eve.  They then come to Christmas Mass, complete with costumes, drums, and jester Wikis.  It is a trip!  Very colorful, and very fun.

2 comments:

  1. What fun seeing these pictures and trying to imagine the experience!

    ReplyDelete