It is not an easy task to sum up our family's year in Ecuador. As with any year in a person's or a family's life, it is full of so many experiences -- some challenging or downright difficult, some hilarious, some joyful, and many just the mundane stuff of daily life. I am anticipating that when we return home, many people will ask "How was it?" -- and I'm not sure how I will answer that in two sentences or less.
If you have read our blog, you know that our family has had some fantastic adventures together. We have not really written about the fact that life in Guadalupe can sometimes be exceedingly boring and under-stimulating, especially when you are an American who is used to having all kinds of choices available at an instant. There are material challenges, like having to deal with bottled water all the time, the lack of variety of food, having tiny ants all over the kitchen (a losing battle), having no car or reliable cell / internet service, and having clothes that may not dry on the indoor line for days if it's rainy. Our life in the U.S. is so comfortable, and we so often take it for granted.
The flip side of all the choices and instant gratification in the States, is that it can make life feel harried and hollow. We constantly occupy ourselves with something, but not necessarily anything substantive. I am as guilty of that as anyone. Especially for us working moms, we somehow feel that we are being virtuous if we devote every minute to taking care of others -- and we feel guilty if we take some time to just put our feet up and do nothing. Or maybe we don't feel guilty, but we don't consciously build in time for "doing nothing" either -- and so it doesn't happen. As for me, I make time to eat right and exercise, because I believe that they will be good for my health, both in the short and long terms, and because I think they are virtues. Isn't the conscious slowing down and relaxing just as likely to contribute to my longevity and sanity? The slowness of our life in Ecuador has been both the hardest thing to deal with, and also the greatest blessing. I am getting better at it. I hope to bring back just a little bit of that slow pace of life, and to make some time just to "do nothing."
The slowness of life has also given us lots of uninterrupted family time. We were a close family before we spent this year in Ecuador, but now it is different. We are such a cohesive unit of four now, because of this shared experience, and also because we have had the luxury of so much time together without all the distractions of a "busy life." We have become more aware that the richness of life does not necessarily correlate to how many things you pack into it.
The most gratifying transformation, though, has been in our kids. I marvel at their resilience, and their self-confidence that they have rightfully earned. In the early months of their school year at Inti Pakari, our two normally very competent students were totally lost. They didn't speak or understand enough of the Spanish language to grasp what was going on, and there were a lot of very understandable tears and melt downs at home. I often reminded them that we were asking them to do one of the most difficult things they would ever do in their lives -- go to school in a foreign language. How many of us can boast that we have done it? I can't. But they can, and once their language skills clicked in around Christmas time, they really blossomed at school. They became little Ecuadorians, running around with their friends and being accepted as one of the gang. No one can take that accomplishment away from them. They have seen first hand that their friends in Guadalupe can be happy and have fun with very little material wealth. And now they know that the world is not such a huge and scary place -- that they can go out experience the challenge of travel, and good things can come of it.
My medical work in the clinic has been rewarding in its own way, though very different than my work in the States. I am trained as a family physician, and most of what I do is primary care -- having long term relationships with patients and being their health care champion. That is the fun part of primary care, and unfortunately there is a lot of administrative white noise that comes along with it, which is less fun. In Guadalupe it was the opposite equation -- I had much less of the time consuming administrative grunt work, but I also had vastly less continuity with my patients. The work was less stressful, but I also found that I really missed the richness of those relationships with my patients. I also had many fewer resources at my disposal in Guadalupe, and so I did what I could, but it wasn't nearly as much as I am usually able to do for a patient. I look forward to going back to work in Tacoma, as a clinician and a teacher. My experience in Ecuador has made me a better physician, and has given me a different perspective. I am thankful to all the patients at Clínica Guadalupe who have trusted me to help with their problems over the past year.
Before we left for Ecuador, as we were telling people what we were getting ready to do, a surprising number of people said to me, "How cool! We have always thought about doing something like that." At the time, in the middle of the incredible amount of work that it took to extricate ourselves from our life a year, I thought, "I totally understand why you don't do it!" I hoped it would be worth all the work and angst. And now, on the other side, I say it was totally worth it. This kind of experience is definitely not for everybody, but if you are thinking seriously about taking an extended time abroad with your family, I encourage you to make it happen. It has not been an easy year, but I have been grateful for the experience every single day.
The picture says it all.
Landys In Ecuador
A family's year abroad
Saturday, July 8, 2017
Friday, July 7, 2017
Belated post -- Saraguro Easter celebration
I just realized that I never shared these pictures of the Saraguro Easter celebration (better late than never). About an hour before mass on Easter Sunday we heard music up at the church, and wandered up there to see what was happening. We found many of the Saraguro people in town in front of the church, dancing and laughing, and doing a sort of procession.
People in traditional Saraguro dress, standing on the steps of the church
It is actually much more expensive to buy traditional Saraguro clothing than to wear normal everyday clothig, so most crowds are a mixture of people in traditional and everyday clothes
These two in the straw hats and masks were comical dancers, pulling people out of the crowd and making everyone laugh by doing silly dances with them
The unsuspecting gringos were prime targets
The comical dancers were both men, but one was dressed as a man and one as a woman. They were both wearing masks
This man's shawl reads "Jesus Resucitó", or "Jesus is risen"
Incense burner
This tower must have been erected the night before, out of two large fallen (and cleaned) trees
This little girl was selected to be the angel, who sits on the platform that is hanging from the tower
She was hoisted up, and she dropped candy from a basket for all the kids to pick up. There was also a statue of Mary with a purple veil, to symbolize her mourning. She "angel" swooped down multiple times and finally pulled the veil from Mary's face, symbolizing Mary realizing that Jesus had risen
Saraguro men traditionally wear a black felt hat, and their hair in one braid down the back
Traditional drum and fiddle music for the dancers -- this drummer is married to the fiddler's daughter
Formal traditional dress, with the shawls and wool hats (our kids call these "cow hats" because of the black and white pattern on the under side of the hat)
This was also a day of many baptisms, and soon lots of kids started showing up in their best finery. The Catholic sacraments -- like baptisms, first communion, and confirmation -- are really big days for families. People spend time and money on making their children look their absolute best, much like a wedding day would be in American culture. There are not many occasions when a kid is really special for a day, so in this culture these events are really emphasized and treasured.
A little girl with a beautiful dress and hairstyle
Emmett and Annalise's schoolmate, Maria, on her big day
Maria's brothers, two of whom (Elias and Isak) are in school with our kids
Everyone then went into the church, which was packed foe the Easter mass. It's fun to see the juxtaposition of the pre-Christian and Christian traditions. Just like we in the U.S. mix the pagan "new life" symbols of bunnies and chicks with Easter, the Saraguro have their own way of maintaining their traditions and mixing them with their ongoing Catholic faith. It feels like a privilege for us to be welcomed as a part of their celebrations.
Saturday, July 1, 2017
Our last week in Guadalupe
We returned from Saraguro on Tuesday evening and all of us were very tired. No rest for the weary though because Emmett's dance troupe had such a busy week. The dance troupe performed at a riverfront park in Zamora on Wednesday night, at Inti Pakari "El Dia de la Familia" fiesta on Friday night and on Saturday night in the city of San Juan. The dance troupe performed at five events in eight days. Emmett had a very busy week with practices in the afternoons and traveling to exhibitions in the evenings. All the dancers had lots of fun despite the busy schedule. Emmett really enjoys his friends and the freedom the late nights bring. The directors of the dance troupe, Patty and Diego, are in their early twenties and very responsible. By the last dance on Saturday night we allowed Emmett to travel on his own without either parent. He returned home at 12:30 in the morning after some non-traditional dancing and partying in San Juan. Emmett's busy dance schedule coincided with a week of "despididos" arranged for us. A despidido is a farewell party. Inti Pakari (Emmett and Annalise's school), Padre Jose and the Catholic sisters, the mission clinic and Emmett's dance troupe each provided a despidido for us to say good-bye. Despididos are part fiesta and part opportunity for everyone to take turns to personally say something about what the person leaving means to them. All of us appreciate the gracious welcome we received by our friends in Guadalupe this year. During our year in Ecuador we experienced a warm embrace by the people of Ecuador, especially the Saraguro people. We are grateful for their hospitality and the opportunity to witness their reverence for their land, devotion to their culture and strength of faith. All of which manifested in fun, frivolity, respect and tenderness.
Annalise and Emmett with "Luna", a puppy with a deformed paw that showed up at Inti Pakari school one morning. Angelita and her family adopted Luna. |
the candidates for "Madre Simbolo de 2017" at Inti Pakari El Dia de la Familia fiesta |
Annalise and her classmates during the evening's dance exhibition |
Of course, Kate is the winner of Madre Simbolo of 2017. |
Emmett and Diego at a farewell dinner with Diego's family at their home. Diego made the cake. He is a man of many talents: excellent soccer player, organizer of dance troupe and baker. |
Annalise's classmates |
Emmett swimming in the river at the Inti Pakari despidido |
Inti Pakari despidido |
Nancy painting Annalise's nails before the dance team despidido |
Emmett listening to his friends talk about their friendship with him at his dance team despidido |
Alondra and I playing at the Inti Pakari despidido |
playing jumping games |
Annalise at the Madre Simbolo fiesta in traditional dress before her dance |
Yuric and Annalise before their traditional dance |
Annalise dancing traditional Saraguro dance with schoolmates |
at the Inti Pakari despidido |
Leidi, Natalyn and Yuric |
Kate and Maria at Maria's house where we were invited for dinner. Maria is the mother of Diego, Jorzy, Jecca and Lourdes and Nancy |
Thursday, June 22, 2017
Who's that albino Saraguro boy dancing at Inti Raymi, the Saraguro people's biggest dance festival of the year?
Emmett was excited to travel to Saraguro with his friends and we said good-bye to him in Guadalupe at 2 pm on Monday afternoon. The dance troupe rented a medium-sized bus for the 4-hour journey from Guadalupe to Saraguro. The bus transporting the dance troupe drove directly to Saraguro via the highways leading to Loja. Annalise, Kate and I decided to try a different route because traveling to Saraguro by public bus takes considerably longer than the 4 hours Emmett would travel by private bus. We boarded a bus to take us north to Yacuambi shortly before Emmett left on his bus. A few miles after leaving Guadalupe, the roads are no longer paved which is often the case for less-traveled roads that wind through the mountains. Ninety minutes later, we reached Yacuambi and purchased tickets for the connection to Saraguro. We had an early dinner and strolled through downtown Yacuambi. At five pm at the scheduled departure time, we learned that we would be traveling not in a bus, but in a pickup truck. A woman and her young daughter shared the front seat of a medium-sized Chevy Luv pickup truck and the three of us and a Saraguro man squeezed in the back seat. Another woman and her daughter paid a discount to ride in the pickup bed with the luggage for a shorter passage. So began the next leg of our adventure. Within a few minutes, we were driving on bumpy dirt roads. For two hours we ascended a mountain in the Andes and then descended for an hour to Saraguro. The road was very narrow and at times I looked out the window to see how many inches of road separated us from a descent down a cliff (with no guard rail). There was a solid hour when we traveled in a cloud and the visibility was very poor. Thankfully, there was no risk of speeding because the potholes in the dirt road required that we travel 3-5 miles per hour. Kate and I needed to hold on to the truck to avoid getting jostled too much. The taxi driver estimated we were about 2800 hundred meters high. There was no cell phone service and I am sure with the cold temperatures and damp, cold climate any mechanical or road passage difficulty would have been a serious problem.
Needless to say, we descended safely and met Emmett and Diego in the center of Saraguro shortly before 8 pm. Annalise joined Emmett and the dance troupe while Kate and I checked into our hotel. Although Kate and I anticipated that there would be a delay in starting the dance festivities after the scheduled time of 8 pm, we still managed to wander on foot in Saraguro after a few imprecise directions to the "Lagunas", where the Inti Raymi festival is held. After approaching a bus we thought belonged to Emmett's dance troupe, we managed to hitch a ride that took us directly to the festival. When we arrived musicians were playing traditional music on the stage and the pageant soon began. Dance troupes arrived from all over Ecuador and everyone seemed excited for the festivities. Fireworks celebrated the start of the traditional dancing and it seemed a perfect night to party. I visited Emmett in the group's changing room and everyone was excited to be practicing. Patty, the leader of Emmett's dance troupe, was practicing a required introductory speech in Kichwa. Kate and Annalise were seated in a covered section of seats with mostly Saraguro elders and their families. Any nervous anticipation we had for Emmett eventually turned to feeling cold and restless. Emmett was having fun with his friends while the three of us waited in the colder temperatures of Saraguro's high elevation. And then it started raining. Saraguro traditional clothing consists of much wool, none of which we were wearing coming from the lower Andes foothills. I managed to find someone with a car to take Annalise and me back to the hotel at 12:30 am. Kate remained at Lagunas to wait for Emmett to dance. Starting at 2 am, Emmett's dance troupe completed six dances in two sets and Patty made a speech in Kwichua. Emmett and Kate returned to the hotel at 2:30 am and the rest of the dance troupe returned to Guadalupe by van via Loja. They arrived in Guadalupe at 6:00 am and most of the dancers had to go to high school that day.
Emmett, Annalise, Kate and I spent a few hours the next day shopping in Saraguro for some traditional clothing for Emmett. We were in a traditional Saraguro clothing shop and spoke with the owner of the shop. After we told him that Emmett danced at Inti Raymi, he laughed and remarked that he thought Emmett was an albino Saraguro boy. Quite a testament that the Saraguro community in Guadalupe has welcomed Emmett. If he managed to join a dance troupe in the US and demonstrated such commitment I would have been very proud. It is amazing how both of our children have adapted and established themselves in a foreign country.
After shopping and lunch we boarded a comfortable bus in Saraguro at 1 pm. Within 10 minutes of our return journey, the bus broke down. We waited on the side of road and another bus from a different transport company arrived and we boarded to successfully return to Guadalupe. All of us were exhausted for two days. Annalise endured some very difficult traveling and a very late night. She proved herself to be very resilient. Emmett rallied on Wednesday night for another dance exhibition at a talent show in Zamora on Wednesday night. Kate and I never expected to be so worn out by our children's activities calendar in a foreign country.
Emily wearing costume honoring the sun for the solstice celebration |
the Saraguro dance troupe of Guadalupe |
I assume these to be last year's pageant winners |
The first dance |
the dance troupe watching other dance troupes and waiting for their turn |
Wiki dancers having fun with the judges |
wiki dancer pulls out a spectator from the audience |
another dance with religious figures and traditional Saraguro musicians |
another dance with Wiki festival figures |
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